Day 10
When I told different English people along the way that I was going to Lyme, most had never heard of it or had never been there. This was exactly the reason I wanted to go: I thought it would probably be just as pristine as it was in Jane Austen's time.
While I did arrive in Lyme the night before, it was a little bit too late to do extensive exploring. I did "immediately go to the water", as Anne Elliot does when she arrives in Lyme (Persuasion). I was instantly enchanted with Lyme: simple, beautiful, natural, unpretentious. There was a cluster of buildings to my right, and a cluster of my buildings to my left; then there was the ocean. That's all you need really!
On my first official day I went to sit in the gardens overlooking the water. I read somewhere that Lyme is mostly a retired community, and certainly most of the people I saw on their walks were older, and some were older tourists. It has a quiet, no-frills feeling to it that you don't always get with ocean-front areas. I did some exploring of some little art galleries and shops. In a couple of the galleries, the shopowners would just stop what they were doing and chat with me. This was certainly a different (good different) reception than I was used to so far. No one I have met has been unfriendly, but there is something about small town people; they are just quicker to warm up to you.
I then went to the local museum. What has certainly been reinforced to me on this trip is that to find out about the area's culture - just talk to the people who live there. In order to find out about the history - go to the local museum if one is available. Because I didn't find very much about Jane Austen in Lyme in my research before the trip, I was also hoping to find some more information about her visits to the area.
Most of the museum was dedicated to the fishing/sailing/pirating history of the town. I did learn that American and British troops trained in Lyme for the battle at Normandy. The Duke of Monmouth tried to take control of England by first landing in Lyme. As referenced in my title, though, Tennyson (very famous British poet), was more interested in seeing where Louisa Musgrove fell in Jane Austen's Persuasion than he was in seeing the sight where Monmouth landed.
There was a section of the museum devoted to Jane Austen. There isn't a whole lot that is known about her whereabouts in Lyme, just that she really enjoyed the time that she spent there. What I learned is that of all of the places mentioned in her books, Lyme and Bath are the only real locations. Bath she thought was pretentious and cold, while Lyme for her was just the opposite. Though every so slightly disappointed that I couldn't learn more, I decided that the value lay in spending time in Lyme, enjoying it as she did. It was there that she must have gained some inspiration.
I spent a lot of time on the Cobb, a long area of rock that leads to the sea. This was, in fact, the spot where Louisa fell. I can see now how that would have been fairly dramatic - it's a long fall! I did test the water, and it was in fact freezing cold. The winds in Lyme were the most brutal I think I've ever encountered - included the weather I faced in Ireland! Some of the local people did go swimming in regular bathing suits, while I wore a long-sleeved shirt, jeans, and a windbreaker (not to swim in of course).
Day 11
I again started out my day with some writing in the park. I'm trying to keep precise records of this trip, because I don't want to forget anything! I actually ended up getting sunburned, even though I was wearing long sleeves because of how cool it was. The weather is so unpredictable here, and it's tricky to plan for it.
I went closer to the water to do some reading. I am eally enjoying visiting a place like this, where you don't have to feel guilty if you aren't constantly "seeing the sights". The point in going there is to relax and reflect. You can just feel that everyone around you is in the same frame of mind.
I walked as far as you can down the road, where apparently people still scavange for dinosaur fossils (or just rock fossils). Mary Anning first made this hobby popular in Lyme, and it really became an industry.
I went back to one of the shops, where I planned to buy a silver necklace that I liked. I was sidetracked by an art gallery, where a cute little man was making frames for prints. He was so incredibly nice to me, and gave me tips about Edinburgh. He had very kind things to say about Americans, Texans/Texas in particular. His wife was the artist, and he was a fisherman. His portrait (painted by her) was actually featured in a museum in Edinburgh. I ended up buying a print there of a painting she did of the street that leads to the Cobb.
I really hated to leave Lyme; it was a scene from yesteryear. I can see why Jane Austen loved it so. I'm going to say it: I think that if we had been contemporaries, living in the same place, we would have been great friends. Or maybe when you travel alone you begin to imagine friends for yourself.
What I'm reading: Persuasion still. I like to take my time with it, because it is much more cerebral that her other books. Anne has an appreciation of the little things that appeals to me. In spite of all of her trials and tribulations, she remains positive and tries to always be good. Jane wrote that Anne was so much better than her - than anyone she knew.
Other observations:
- People in this area say "okay?", and their vocal inflection goes up, as though they're asking a question
- Everyone says I'm "gutsy" or "brave" for taking this trip, but it is EASY to travel in such a nice place where everyone you meet is nice and helpful
- Never underestimate an authentically nice person.
-Pack for EVERY kind of weather.
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